Wednesday, October 22, 2008

mexico d.f

templo mayor and cathedral in the backdrop -- diego rivera murals in the palacio


sinking building ---------------------------------sopa de pancita (hangover delicacy)


mezcal tasting in san angel ---------------------tacos with beef



beatiful chica in the bar ---------------------teotihuacan


cactus and prickly pear --------------pyramida del sol at the back


seb and the sun

it was quite a culture shock arriving in mexico city airport. one moment we were surrounded by americans, three hours later, mexicans. we must have stuck out like a sore thumb with our backpacks and hoodies.
antonin - seb´s good friend - (and flat mates) welcomed us into their home in the roma sur district. it is an area that bustles during the day and is quieter at night. taco stalls line the streets, at almost all hours with vendors selling cool drinks, their shoe shining skills and watch batteries. indeed.

we explored district to district with the fantastic (and cheap; m$2) metro system. one moment we were in awe at the tilting cathedral in the zocalo (main square), the next we were walking through the rather snooty san angel area, looking at the different paintings on show.
we visited a number of museums in the city centre itself, including the town hall where diego rivera had painted the most spectacular murals of life in mexico before and during the spanish invasion. of course, who could come so far and not visit the casa azul, where frida kahlo lived and painted during her days.

in the evenings, there was some serious snacking on oaxacan cheese and spicey broad beans, metzcal tastings (also made from the cactus, as tequila) and exploring the various hang-outs of antonin´s. some of the nicest were in san angel (la metzcaleria) and the centro cultural de españa in the city centre, where they had a really cool bar area on the roof overlooking the plaza mayor, templo mayor and the zocalo.

on our last day, we visited the ruins of teotihuacan. once a thriving aztec city in 100 - 600a.d . it´s main ruins consist of the moon and sun temple, a massive stone structure of 3 tons, built like a pyramid. guess who they worshipped there??

the million peso question:
have you ever wondered why the mexican flag has an eagle, sitting on a prickly pear cactus on a rock in water clutching a snake? well, the aztec people believed that this sight signified the centre of the universe and this is where their main city (temple mayor) would be built hence Tenochtitlán AKA mexico city. the city was built on a swamp, the sinking effect is now obvious with certain monuments leaning at extraordinary angles-

touristic stop number two: oaxaca in the province of ... oaxaca

Ayant pris un peu de retard sur notre itinéraire en californie, on décide de prendre un vol depuis Tijuana a Mexico d.f. Antonin et Paulina nous acceuillent dans leur appart de Colonia Roma Sur et on rattrape le temps perdu autour d´un verre de tequila.
Lors de ce séjour a Mexico on prend plaisir a se perdre dans le centre historique. La place du Zocalo est magnifique, entourée par sa vieille cathédrale qui commence a pencher sérieusement (Mexico est en fait construite sur un lac asséché donc le terrain est plutot febrile), le palais national qui abrite qq unes des fresques les plus célèbres de Diego Rivera et enfin les ruines azteques du templo mayor, centre de l´univers selon les mayas. Imagines toi toute une ville (et la on parle de mexico donc plutot une grande ville) construite sur les ruines d´une ancienne civilisation, ca me laisse reveur. D´autant que seulement une petite partie du l´ensemble des temples n´a été mis a jour et que recemment (année 70 je crois).

Le midi, on déguste local a base de tortas (notament une délicieuse torta de pulpo, sandwich de pieuvre dans son encre), tacos al pastor (tortilla, viande, tomate, oignon) ou enfin queso fondido (tortilla et fromage fondu). On profite aussi de ce séjour dans la capitale pour visiter le musée de l´ethnologie afin de faire connaissance avec les différentes régions et leurs ethnies. Le wend est dédié au quartier pavé de San Angel et son marché d´artisanat local puis sur le parc de l´université UNAM ou Antonin donne ses cours, enfin la casa azul, maison de frida khalo.

Les soirs, Antonin nous révèle ses spots favoris, notament la mezcaleria de San Angel et la terrasse de la maison de l´espagne avec vue sur le zocalo. On découvre avec plaisir le mezcal (sorte de tequila également a base de cactus) accompagné de fromage d´Oaxaca et d´haricots rouges grillés, un vrai délice. Au lendemain d´une soirée bien arrosée, Antonin me convainc mème d´essayer la sopa de pancita (soupe de trippes) qui soit disant aide a lutter contre la gueule de bois. Expérience intéressante que je déconseille de bon matin qui n´a pas eu les effets curatifs escontés, loin de là...

Finalement, on part pour la journée voir les pyramides de Teotihuacan, ensemble de temples érigés entre 200 et 600 et dédiés principalement au soleil et à la lune. Le site est bien préservé et les pyramides en imposent comme le montrent les photos.

Ce séjour a Mexico d.f. restera mémorable pour toutes ces soirées à travers les différents quartiers mais surtout il aura posé les bases culinaires de notre voyage en terre aztèque...

Wednesday, October 08, 2008

san diego


wine tasting in temecula, california ----------------ella synold teasing the camera


happy wine tasters --------------------------------hungry panda in san diego zoo


sleepy uran utang -------------------------------khs reunion in la Jolla


sunset @ seaside ----------------------------bodyboarding session at moonlight


pizza treat in Coronada island ----------------kelly and karis endulging in old school milkshake


ruby´s old school diner in san clemente

initially we planned to spend only a few days - a week in the san diego area. yet, when the crunch came to leave, we found it most difficult and postponed our trip by a few days.

on the way from death valley, we stopped off in san celemente to see kelly (thomas). she, and brendon, live in such a cool ¨city¨, with such an awesome vibe perched right on the beach. we had lunch in a cool mexican restaurant with her and pantoof, their french bulldog who managed to befriend almost everyone in his surroundings.


carlsbad was home for the week. the synolds (jr, kelly and ella) treated us like kings (and queens) with daily trips to the beach, delicious red wine from the region and soya in all colours and shapes (indeed, soya bacon looks and tastes just like the real macoy)...the list is endless!

we explored the san diego zoo (which was surprisingly very good and well done), balboa park and it's photographic museum, corondo, temecula (wine region) for some tasting, a day in baja california and of course, lots and lots of exploring along the s.d coast.

on a few occasion we tore ourselves away from the comforts of our carlsbad home and hung out in la jolla. we smoozed around leanne´s place and met up with some old school friends that i have not seen since i matriculated...a ripe ten years ago. it was great hearing what steve, simon and katherine had been doing in all that time. indeed, a decade is quite a while.

california is a fantastic place to visit as it has so much to offer and of course hanging out with friends definately made this part of the trip that much more memorable.


On se pose ensuite à San Diego, plus exactement Carlsbad chez les Synolds. La petite famille (JR, Kelly et Ella, l´oiseau, le lapin du pérou Picchu, le cheval et enfin la chienne Ellie) nous accueillent royalement dans son appartement de Carlsbad. Ca fait du bien de se poser dans une maison et de retrouver des amis.
Les matinées se passent a la plage (Seaside, moonlight, Estreet, la Jolla) entre surf et bodyboard, puis on se promene dans San Diego downtown, dans Encinitas, petite ville de bord de mer super sympa.
Le soir, ce sont de longues discussions animées sur les très prochaines élections présidentielles. On suit les 2 débats attentivement tout en sirotant du bon vin californien et en dégustant qqunes des spécialités végétariennes de la famille.
Le wend, qq excursions nous emmènent sur l´ile Coronado, ou alors pour une degustation de vin du côté de Temecula, ou enfin en Baja California pour les plages et un déjeuner mémorable de langouste et tacos pas frais dans un resto mexicain plus que moyen. Au retour, on a droit a l´enfer de la traversée de la frontière a Tijuana avec une bonne heure d´attente sous un soleil de plomb.
Ca a été également l´occasion pour Karis de retrouver qquns de ses anciens amis de lycée, soit en vacances, soit émigrés définitivement.
De plus, nous avons pu faire une petite séance shopping aux magasins d´usine afin de pouvoir enfin jeter ce vieu pantalan trop large et trop sale ou alors ces vieilles claquettes toutes pourries.
Finalement, au lieu de rester une semaine, on s´est un peu laissé vivre tranquillement et on ne quitte la californie qu´après 10 jours de vrai bonheur.

venice beach (Los Angeles)


venice beach -------------------------arcades along beachfront


baywatch

venice beach, l.a is a REALLY "interesting" spot. there are such characters perusing streets. apparently, in the 60/ 70's, there was a lot of drug testing and these are the souls that didn't manage to get right after it all. on several occasions we saw men in tight speedos (one was wearing the american flag), topless and in cowboy boots. i kid you not. i had to look twice as it was quite surreal.

besides watching the oddities, we walked around, dined on huge american-sized pizza slices and strolled along the third street promenade.

we stayed in a great (for v.beach standards) hostel not even 200m from the beach/ freaks. prime location for a day at the beach.


off the point a little, there were some things that we noticed on arrival in usa: "ped x-ing". we were not even in china town and we saw this painted on the road or on a sign. after much discussion and reflection, we discovered that it meant ....drum roll...pedestrian crossing! those americans really are smart!

the joys of being a tourist in a foreign country -

Venice beach

L´arrivee sur LA se revele quelque peu chaotique avec des autoroutes a 7 voies, des voitures qui doublent dans tous les sens, des ´humers´, 4*4 hauts en suspension, des limousines a tous les coins de rues. On se trouve une auberge assez sympa a cote de la plage des ´freaks´ou gens bizarres. En effet, en se promenant sur le front de mer, on peut observer plusieurs zigotos un peu decalés portant des strings avec drapeau americain et santiags ainsi que plusieurs hyppies essayant de vendre qq trucs. Apparemment, c´est ici que pas mal de drogues expérimentales auraient été testées ... En tout cas, en un jour, on a pu voir la cabane de mitch bukanon (alerte a malibu), les filles qui font du roller sur la promenade en maillot de bain (alerte a malibu), les flics super baraqués a vélo (alerte a malibu) et enfin les skaters et surfers venant taquiner la vague ou le bitume. Le soir, on va diner américain (entendre bonne grosse part de pizza) sur Third Promenade du cote de Santa Monica.

death valley


seb admiring the remains of the sunset at zabriskie point -------- jhb? in death valley? no way!


the sand dunes of stonepipe wells village ------- amoungst the salt pinnacles at devil's golf course


macro view of a salt formation ------------------artist's palette


afternoon walk through the golden canyon ----- bodie ghost town


driving..but getting nowhere -----------------------the once saloon/post office


the interior of the saloon -----------------------seb supported by a joshua tree ready for mexico

the old mining mill in bodie --------------------doing a little window shopping in bodie



mono lake -------------------------------------- tufa formations in mono lake



contrast of vegetation on the salt desert


mono lake is situated in the middle of a volcanic desert and homes two volcanic islands, one black (negit) and the other white (paoha). it resembles something from a sci-fi movie with with huge tufa formations (limestone) bulging out of the now dried-up lake (thanks to the city of l.a which sucked it dry in the late 1800's, due to drought).

we had a little walk along a wooden promenade to the edge of the lake. it was mind-blowing being so close to these alien-like formations. really, really weird. star trek here we come!!

En sortant du parc Yosemite, on tombe directement sur le lac mono et ses paysages lunaires. En effet, le lac est entoure de structures de sel blanches (Tufa) qui constrastent avec la cendre volcanique noirs des deux volcans du lac. On fait une promenade dans cette grande etendue semi desertique loin de tout et on en revient tout ebahi.


bodie ghost town was once a booming mining town in the 19th century. it was scary walking around, looking in through the windows at the remains. it was as though the inhabitants suddenly packed up and left everything as is. saloons still have the glasses (obviously empty), gathered with dust, pool tables have the balls in position and the local store still with products on the shelves. it reminded me of elizabeth bay in luderitz, namibia. it really felt as though we were intruding. definately well-worth the visit.

Suite a cette drole d experience extra terrestre, on part pour la ville fantome de Bodie qui fut une ville miniere importante du 19e siecle lors de la ruee vers l´or. La ville est situee dans le desert de la mort et elle a laissee telle quelle par ses habitants. on peut encore voir les couverts sur la table, les bieres entamee sur le bistrot de la ville.
En se promenant dans les rues, on se croit vraiment dans un western.

death valley was also quite memorable as it suddenly went from bearable to stupidly hot. i thought that india was bad but this was really a killer! the a/c was on at all times (unless when we were driving up a winding hill. then we were advised to turn it off). the colours were spectacular especially at artists pallette where the rock has various colours due to the different components; blues, greens, pinks etc. beautiful!

the devil's golf course (named because only the devil would be able to play golf on such terrain) was incredible with the salt formations. we were able to walk around them which really left us with a strange feeling. again, like we were from another planet.

zabriskie point had a marvellous view over the valley and served as a perfect spot to watch the sunset.

we left soon after, driving along the torturous road out of the valley. it was unbearable as it was constantly winding, there was not a soul to be seen and it could have been the perfect scene for a horror movie. indeed, i have a wild imagination.

Enfin on arrive au coeur de la vallee de la mort, qui tient son nom des chercheurs d or decedes lors de la traversee du desert d est en ouest. Il y a fait une chaleur insupportable, elle est situee apres 3 chaines de montagnes, donc ne recoit quasiment aucune goutte d eau. Il n y a rien a perte de vue, si ce n´est sable, poussiere, arbres Joshua et formations rocheuses bizarres. Les lacs y sont asseches et ont laisses derriere eux des deserts de sel. Lors de la traversee on fait halte a Badwater, l´endroit le plus bas des US (-50m d´altitude).
On decide de conduire de nuit vers Los Angeles et l´experience fut assez interessante dans la mesure ou sur 3 h de conduite a travers la vallee sur des routes sinueuses de poussiere dans le noir complet on a pas du croiser une seule voiture. Le ciel est superbe depuis la vallee car il n´y a aucune lumiere alentours.

Tuesday, October 07, 2008

Yosemite


meadow in the valley -----------comfy bed from the Ford Focus


giant sequoias -------------------last vertical portion of the half dome 

       
el capitan (referring to the rock on the background) ----half dome 





karis was also there -----------------------shaky pic for an unusual encounter




        

the meadow next to el capitan where rock climbers hang out @ 2000 m high...---tree fight

Parc Yosemite

Je suis heureux quand j'apercois les cimes de la sierra nevada.
En effet, le parc yosemite se situe au coeur de la sierra, sur plusieurs centaines de kms.

En arrivant, on est tout de suite seduit par la hauteur des arbres, l'immensite de la foret, et la stature de ces immenses blocs de granit. L'endroit est sauvage, les ours bruns en sont les principaux locataires, il fait beau, l'air est pur. Je retrouve un peu de la Savoie ici et ca fait du bien.

Lors de notre sejour, on se planifie plusieurs randonnees. On adopte une approche plutot attentiste avec deux premieres marches permettant d'acceder a des points de vue sur la vallee et sur Half dome, cet immence bloc de granit.
Le soir, on dort dans un camp a l'interieur du parc. Les nuits sont assez difficiles car il fait froid (dans les 5 degC) et le comfort du coffre de la ford est tres limite. Pour couronner le tout, on se bat pour avoir chacun un bout du seul duvet qu'on a amene.
Le soir, on assiste a une veillee organisee par Ranger Jean Michel autour du feu. Il nous raconte toutes ses histoires sur les ours.  C'est sympa 5 minutes mais on reste quand meme car au moins il fait chaud autour du feu de camp, pas comme dans notre lit de fortune...

Pour l'ascension de Half Dome (1500 m de denivele et 8 h de marche), on se leve tot. Sur le chemin, on tombe nez a nez avec un ours (cf photo) en quete de petit dejeuner.
La randonnee est assez difficile, la vue du sommet est grandiose et la derniere partie consisite en une ascension plus ou moins verticale avec l'aide d'echelles. 

On est fatigue, mais heureux d'avoir pu passer 3 jours dans un parc naturel grandiose. 
Direction les paysages lunaires du mono lake et la vallee de la mort....

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what a magical place yosemite is. the national park stretches on and on forever and its just as amazingly beautiful from bend to bend. around each corner, there is another view of one the monstrosities of a mountain.

we spent three nights near/ in the park. where? the ford of course! well not all the time. the 1st night, we managed to find quite a cool campsite that had the tent and blow-up mattress already installed and ready for some lazy, unprepared campers (us). this place was really a one-horse town. one minute you were in the place, not even a second later you were out. lucky for us, the village was having a chili cook-off. music was blaring, pots were being fulled with chili (a combo of beans, veg and spices) and it was party-time. we dropped off our bags and headed straight to the national park for some exploring.

as i mentioned earlier, we were not at all prepared for the change in temperatures especially in the evenings. seb had unfortunately left his nice, warm sleeping bag in vietnam, so we were sharing mine, wearing almost all of our clothes to keep warm. one good thing came from this, we were up before sunrise and out with the avid mountaineers. believe it!

we conquered the half dome(25km with 1500 elevation), which was a strenuous eight hour hike; up and down faster than the average mountain goat!!
i don't want to brag or anything so before i do, i shall tell you a little about mono lake and death valley -

Napa valley

On part pour la vallee de Napa (celebre pour ses vignobles) un vendredi apres-midi au milieu des embouteillages. N'ayant rien reserve, on realise vite en arrivant de nuit que si on veut rester dans notre budget, on va devoir dormir dans la voiture de location.
Apres une petite discussion, Karis est convaincue et on decide donc de se faire plaisir en s'offrant un restaurant. On commande egalement une bouteille de vin local pour deguster mais egalement pour aider a dormir...

En effet, quand arrive l'heure fatidique du coucher ( il n'y avait plus personne au resto a part nous), on parque la voiture en face d'une eglise et on organise notre lit de fortune. Banquette arriere repliee on peut juste s'allonger aves les pieds dans le coffre et la barre de fer de la banquette a hauteur de hanche, un veritable plaisir pour le dos...

La nuit se passe bien dans l'ensemble malgre de nombreux changements de position douloureux.

Tot le matin, on petit dejeune puis on suit la route scenique qui nous mene a travers les vignes. La region est jolie, les routes agreables mais je m'attendais a mieux.

On quitte donc la vallee pour rejoindre le parc Yosemite.

napa valley

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napa valley could be compared to the vineyards of franschhoek or perhaps even bordeaux. wine farms line the hills in all directions and many were tempting to visit. unfortunately, we arrived too late and left too early to enjoy a glass or two of wine tasting.

so why did we arrive too late, you may be wondering. well, alcatraz was mesmorising and getting out of san fran was chaotic so arriving after dark was part of the plan. not ours but fate. due to the fact that it was a friday (yes, we are brilliantly efficient with planning), we weren't able to find a hotel in our budget so it was our ford that was "home" for the night. i can honestly say that we had no choice as $250/ night seemed a tad extravagent. wouldn't you agree?

we wined and dined in a local restaurant, enjoying some of the local vino before parking our "home" in front of the community church. yes, the methodist church watched over us while we slept somewhat uncomfortably in the boot/ back seat. a word of wisdom: don't do it! it's not worth it!!

so supper was mmm delicious and breakfast was too. we found a lovely little bakery in the centre of the town where we shared strong cups of coffee and croissants with the local folk. e-vent-ful ;)
once we had had enough, we left for yosemite...not really ready for the change in altitude -